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Joshua Turner
Joshua Turner

Samsung Clp 325 Reset BETTER

  • PopularRecentCommentsTagsReset Epson Waste Ink Pad Counter April 10, 2021Free Trial Key For Reset Epson Waste Ink Pad Counters April 14, 2021Reset Epson WF-C5290, WF-C5290DW, WF-C5290BA April 2, 2021Reset Epson WF-2850, WF-2851, WF-2855 April 2, 2021Reset Epson SC P400, P405, P407, P408, PX7V2 April 10, 2021How to reset Epson TX230 5 hours agoHow to reset Epson TX220 8 hours agoHow to reset Epson TX219 17 hours agoHow to reset Epson TX215 17 hours agoHow to reset Epson TX210 22 hours agodangmien: No...

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samsung clp 325 reset

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Thanks. After writing the question above, I decided to shut down the MacBook Air and then reboot. This must have reset the printing system like you outlined above and I was able to install my printer. The system didn't even try to download any software. It appears that it was already on the system and by rebooting, it connected with the software already on the computer and installed the printer.

Man that sounds like a lot of work. My samsung ML-2510, which was extremely cheap, just has a small glass fuse hidden on the toner cartridge. When you install the toner cartridge for the first time, the printer blows the fuse and resets the page count. I guess that it does something very similar to what you just described?

This article describes how to get your Samsung printer working again without shelling out a fortune for a new Imaging unit. If you just want to know how to do do it, skip to the next step, the rest of this step is just an explanation of how I figured this out! Note that this worked for my CLP-365w printer but it may work for other similar Samsung models too. It will certainly work for any printer that uses the CLT-R406 imaging unit but I suspect they all use a similar technique to reset the page count.

A quick google search reveals many places offering to sell you a "reset chip" for around 15 with instructions, it's like magic, you just unfold it, plug it onto the imaging unit, close the lid and taadaa! The printer "thinks" you've bought a shiney new imaging unit an happily prints away.

I was about to punch in my card number and be done with it but then I watched the instruction video and took a closer look, I could see that this "reset chip" was really just a 30p resistor stuck to a piece of plastic. Cunningly, all of the photo's and videos of these chips seem to show it covered in a black lacquer so you can't see the coloured ribbons on them. Of course they've covered this up, they wouldn't want their little secret getting out! Well sorry guys, I know your game! These people are almost as bad as Samsung, packaging a 30p resistor up and selling it for 15!

After a bit of research, I discover how these things work. The imaging unit has a small removable plastic housing with 2 resistors in, one 200k ohm, and one much weaker 56ohm fusible type resister, in parallel. When it first powers up, the printer detects a low resistance. The printer passes a current though the drum unit and the small "fuse" resistor blows. From now on, when the printer powers on, it only detects the 200k resister so it knows this is not a new drum so the printer counts all the printed pages from now on. 2 years down the line, we hit the magic number and the printer stops working because it "thinks" the drum is now useless. So you go out and buy a new drum, it has the same 2 resistors inside, only the smaller one is not blown. You plug it in, the printer sees a low resistance again, it knows there is a new drum, so it resets the page count and then blows the new fuse and the cycle repeats. Now, if instead of buying a new drum unit we just replace the fuse, we can "trick" the printer into thinking we have a new drum unit. Simple. This is exactly what the 15 kits are doing, they are simply a new 56ohm fused resistor which you stick across the terminals.

We need to get that new resistor in there with the 200k ohm briefly and power the printer on. I suppose you could solder it in permanently, this will basically reset the page count every time the printer turns on. But this is designed to be a fusible resistor that blows, so I don't know if there is any concerns about this component overheating if you do that. In my case, I just rammed it in the housing roughly and twisted the component legs around the existing one to form a connection. In the picture, the blue resistor is the 56 ohm one.

You can reset all of the counters by using the Tech Menu.The Tech Menu is accessed by two different methods:If your printer has a numeric keyboard, Type [Menu] [#] [1] [9] [3] [4] [Menu].Choose [Data Setup] [OK], [Clear Counts] [OK], [1934] [OK]Scroll to the item you want to reset, and press [OK].Now power down the printer, unplug from the wall for 30 seconds, and replug/power.Your error message and warning light should be gone.If your printer does not have a numeric keyboard, you get to the Tech Menu by hitting these keys:[Menu] [Back] [] [OK] [Stop] [Menu]Use [] to choose [Data Setup] [OK] [Clear Counts] [OK].Use right arrow [>] and [UP] [Down} to scroll through the four password spaces and enter the required digits (1934).Scroll to the item to be cleared by using the [] keys, then [OK].Now power down the printer, unplug from the wall for 30 seconds, and replug/power.Your error message and warning light should be gone.There are videos on youtube that show you how this is done.Remember, this does not fix the problem or replace the worn component. It just stops the warnings and re-enables printing until you can make a real fix. Your printer will wear out and break down if you do not attend to required maintenance. In my opinion, if your printing is coming out looking good, why spend money to fix an un-problem. Start saving money for when the quality of the printing goes down or you get a real "break" down.

The first time this happened to me, I purchase a kit with 2 "reset circutis". Each is just a couple of copper pads that you stick over the original copper squares. between the pads is a resistor, but it is not 56 ohm. The resistor in my kits are (yellow violet black gold gold) 47 ohm.I have now used both kits, and I would like to purchase some fuses to have on hand for the next time. My question is:Do I want 56 ohm or 47 ohm resistors, AND do I want 1/4 watt or 1/2 watt?Also, any ideas how to tell the wattage of the two resistors in the kits that I purchased?

Hey,this helped me to fix my printer. But i just did it even easier:0. Turn off printer ant plug out Power cable.1. I took out the plastic thing that contails the resistors. I call it carrier.2. took a new 47 Ohm resistor (just had one..) and wrapped its ends around the pins that normally test the resistors. 3. Left the Carrier OUT, and closed the printer. Then plugged the Power cord. After that pushed the "power button". It took a while, LEDs of the colors were lighting up and after about lets say 20-30 Seconds... i thought, risky , and plugged off the power cord again.4. opened the printer, smelled a bit burned. (So the new Resistor was burned.5. Put the carrier back into the image unit. an restarted the Printer..Tadaaa Resettet the Image Belt Unit Counter. BUT still my "Fuser belt LIfe" and "transfer Belt Life" Are not resettet. (even after i put in NEW ORIGINAL SAMSUNG replacement parts )

I bought my printer for $4 from a thrift store, missing the paper tray. That cost $80, and I ordered replacement aftermarket auto resetting toner cartridges for it. Loaded it all up, and then got "prepare new imaging unit". Thankfully Google found your page immediately.Not having a 56k ohm resistor, I dug through my collection to find a 30 ohm 1/4W and a 22 ohm 1/2W resistor.. soldered them in series for 52 ohms, and installed this in the fuse box, for the printer to tell me "#C3-6520 open/close door". Hmm. tried this, no change.I pulled the imaging unit out, in case it needed to be removed and reseated. Figured I would give it a quick clean while it was out, as it had some toner dust on it. I then noticed it seemed to be full of old toner.I popped the circlip off one end, and slid the rod out from the drum, which allowed me to remove the drum carefully, with a soft cloth, so it wouldn't get scratched. The rest of the unit was full of toner dust. I would advise doing this clean outside.. I tipped the toner out, and shook the unit, and it just seemed to keep going forever. Eventually it stopped coming out mostly, I blew a bit more off it, then wiped it over with the rag, before reinstalling the drum, the rod, and replacing the circlip.I reinstalled it and the toner carts back in the printer, but it was still giving me the C3 error. I popped the fuse box out again, and noticed that the 1/4W resistor was now quite black. I removed it, reinstalled the fuse box, closed the door., and away it went. Printing out the supplies information tells me that I have 100% of imaging unit life remaining and that it has done 1 page, of 16000.I suspect this limit is in place due to the amount of toner that ends up trapped in the imaging unit. Considering they are $160 to replace, I'm very happy for you to have shared this trick with us! 350c69d7ab


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